I experimented with various materials for this item, which was to be entirely machine embroidered.

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I looked at using mirrored film as an alternative to shisha and was pleased with the results.

I tested printing with coloured discharge paste on a variety of fabrics. Using Indian printing blocks and xpandaprint onto chiffon also worked well.

I was most pleased with the drape when using these light silks and chiffons which gave a light and delicate feel to the top.

However, printing onto chiffon was not successful as the pattern was lost. The desired effect was achieved by layering and cutting back up to 4 different colours but this was too expensive in both time and materials to be viable.

click to enlarge
click to enlarge

The fabric for the finished piece was silk painted Habotai, under a layer of black chiffon. This was then cut back to form "tiles" and joined by soluble edges. Some of the chiffon was removed to give shading.

The same design was rotated at the top, with a tea dyed background left in place. All the motifs were outlined in whip stitch.

The cost of materials was £49.94, labour 260 hours.